Introduction

Current research has been shown that in their daily fight for survival, plants employ a host of defense mechanisms. An important facet of their immune response involves endogenous signal molecules, many of which have been identified. Salicylic acid has been identified as one of these molecules. It functions directly in the plant defense response to pathogens.

Salix alba, or white Willow, is tree found throughout North America, Asia and Europe. The bark of the tree is the main source of; as well as the flowers and leaves are also sources of Salicylic acid -like ingredients. When added to cosmetic formulation, the extract can increase cell renewal and boost the anti-microbial capabilities of the formulation. Even though the extract is a source of Salicylic acid -like ingredients and is able to contribute effects similar to those seen from Salicylic acid, it has none of the drawbacks associated with synthetic salicylic acid -mainly irritation. The extract is a safe way to get the benefits of a b-hydroxy acid (BHA) without the risk of irritation.

At the recent American Academy of Dermatology meeting held in San Francisco (March 1997), (DCI, April 1997) prominent dermatologists confirmed their belief that the beta hydroxy, salicylic acid is the next generation of products for improving the appearance of aging skin. After reviewing comprehensive data, the dermatologists agreed the beta hydroxy, salicylic acid is a superior exfoliant that improves the appearance of aging, sun-damaged skin without all the irritation associated with the popular alpha hydroxy, glycolic acid.

Dr. Albert Kliginan, professor emeritus of dermatology at the University of Pennsylvania School of Medicine, concluded: "Salicylic acid is effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improving overall facial texture because it exfoliates both the skin surface and within pores, without all the iritation commonly associated with the alpha hydroxy, glycolic acid." It has been found that beta hydroxy, salicylic acid is effective with as little as one-fifth the concentration typically found in products containing glycolic acid, the most commonly used alpha hydroxy acid. In a single study comparing a 1.5 percent salicylic acid product and an 8+ percent glycolic acid product, the salicylic acid product was shown to be a more effective exfoliant.
Its superior exfoliation action is thought to he attributed to its lipid- or oil-solubility.
It concentrates its exfoliation action in the lipid-rich outer layers of the skin, where the skin's natural rate of exfoliation reduces with aging, causing a buildup of dry, dull skin flakes.

According to Dr. Kligman, betas also exfoliate with in the pores, a benefit not seen with the glycolic acid product tested. Glycolic acid is water-soluble, which may lead to its localizing more deeply in the skin, possibly accounting for its observed higher level of irritation. "Salicylic acid was preferred by the study participants," commented Kligman. "If women think a product is too strong or too irritating for their skin, they typically won't use it as often as they should or they won't use enough of it, clearly impacting the product's effectiveness."

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